Professor Karen Scheib's Russia Diary
I arrived in Moscow just in time for the May 9th celebration of the 60th anniversary of the end of WWII in Russia. Rev. Natasha Shulgina, a Russian native and current Emory PhD student accompanied me. While President Bush, who was also visiting, was at Red Square with President Putin, I observed the festivities at a local park near the "professor's apartment." Though I understood very few words, I was moved by a young's mans portrayal of a Russian soldier recounting his experiences of the war. Following the dramatic presentation, soldiers stood at attention while young women in native costume laid flowers at the foot of the war memorial. Those present who served in the war were honored and given flowers. While men served as soldiers, women also played important roles. One of my students told me that her grandmother had served on the front by burying the dead. It was a terrible war for all concerned, but especially hard on Russia, where nearly 27 million died. Through this celebration I began to glimpse the weight of Russian history.
 Prof. Scheib and Class |
Following the holiday, it was time to visit the seminary and prepare for our course, an introduction to pastoral care. While touring the building, we had the opportunity to meet Bishop Hans Vaxby, the new Bishop of the Eurasia region of the United Methodist Church. The Episcopal offices share the building with the Russia United Methodist Seminary. Our Candler alum, Rev. Eduard Khegay, newly appointed Assistant to the Bishop as of June 1, 2005, greeted us. It was wonderful to see a former student. I am happy to report that Candler School of Theology is well represented in Russia by our graduate.
I was the last of several visiting scholars for the year. Since the seminary does not yet have a regular faculty, visiting scholars, primarily from other United Methodist seminaries, teach most of the courses as volunteers. As a consequence, instruction is primarily in English. Current students who are fluent in English provide a running translation of the lectures. This is a hardship on the students who are trying to learn a new subject while being required to translate for their classmates.
Being aware of these difficulties, I was determined to make some efforts to cross the language barrier. I spent three intensive months studying Russian, which provided me with very rudimentary language skills. I was able to have short conversations with students during breaks and as the weeks wore on my ability to understand the students improved. I arranged for Rev. Natasha Shulgina to serve as teaching assistant and translator. This assignment allowed her to complete the teaching internship required by the PhD program at Emory in the seminary from which she had graduated. The students were pleased to be relieved of most translation duties. They were even more delighted to discover that some lectures would be completely in Russian.
 Red Square |
Students from all three years were in the class, which was the last one of the semester. About half of the students are women and most are young. The students proved to be committed Christians, and diligent, eager learners. Though quite polite in the beginning, the students were soon engaged and willing to ask hard questions. I believe providing some materials and instruction in Russian helped them engage the subject matter more quickly.
Four of the ten students graduated at the end of the term and will serve United Methodist churches in various parts of Russia. It is not easy to be a Protestant and United Methodist in Russia. The Russian Orthodox Church has an overwhelming presence, and legal restrictions make it difficult for non-orthodox churches to own property. Some in Russia never forgot the Russian orthodoxy and are deeply committed to a faith nurtured in secret throughout the Soviet years. For others, religion was newly discovered in United Methodist house churches. Many of the students struggle to incorporate the orthodox legacy that is so much a part of the Russian identity into their understandings of Methodism. A recent course on Wesleyan history provided resources for this task by pointing to Wesley's use of Patristic resources.
I found one such small but faithful group at the Grace and Salvation United Methodist Church. I was invited by Pastor Rosa Tiu to preach at the 13th anniversary celebration of this congregation. This is one of the older congregations in the Russia UMC, which reestablished churches about 15 years ago. I was warmly greeted by the church members and as the hour progressed felt our sense of common purpose in worship, despite differences in language. Hospitality in Russia includes food. Not only did we enjoy a delicious meal together after the service, but also I was sent home with left-overs!
 UMC |
My days off allowed me to explore the sights, churches, and museums around Moscow. No trip to Moscow would be complete without a visit to Red Square. The Russian name for Red Square originally meant "beautiful square." Surprisingly, it is both beautiful and red. Some of the main buildings and the Kremlin wall are a deep red. Standing at one end of Red Square you look down to the intricate multicolored domes of Saint Basil’s Cathedral. On the right side is the Kremlin and Lenin’s tomb, and along the left side is GUM. GUM, once the government department store is now filled with trendy upscale shops. One is whisked to and from such sights by the incredible subway system in Moscow. The Metro may be old and noisy, but it is efficient, cheap, and moves great masses of people.
Almost everywhere you go, you see the onion shaped domes of orthodox churches. A prime example is the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow. This imposing and magnificent church has just recently been restored and reopened as a cathedral. The building had been converted to other purposes during the soviet years. A replica of the famed Rubilev icon stands near the altar. Imposing columns support the central dome of high overhead. The altars are adorned with gold leaf and iconography. It is a breath taking sight.
A trip outside of Moscow took me what is known as the center of Russian orthodoxy, the monastery of St. Sergius. According to my host Rev. Andre Kim, this monastery has played a crucial role in Russia’s history. Its blue and gold domes are exquisite. The monastery houses several small churches. In one, which remains open for worshipers, lie the remains of St, Sergius. Even before entering, you hear the sounds of the faithful chanting. Once inside, icon covered walls greet you. Even without knowing how to read the icons, there is something deeply moving and mystical about them. Surrounded by candlelight, the chanting faithful, and the icons, I was transformed from a tourist into a pilgrim in a holy place.
 Students |
After three weeks of teaching, my husband joined me for a trip to St. Petersburg. Rev. Oxana Petrova, pastor of Holy Trinity United Methodist Church, greeted us at the train station. She and her parishioners were gracious enough to show us around the city and the surrounding area. On the way to the opulent summer palace, we heard about the faithful work of this small church. This congregation of twenty to thirty works with three orphanages in the area, and provides summer camps for the children. They have been joined in this work by United Methodist Churches in the U.S through the Russia Initiative. Given the difficulty of being United Methodist in Russia, the youth of the reestablished church, and the instability of the economy, the spiritual and financial support of partner churches in the U.S. has been crucial to this congregation and many throughout Russia.
When people ask about my trip to Russia, I still find it hard to put the experience into words. The students were inspiring. The museums were incredible. The cathedrals were moving. The people on the street, though reserved and sometimes cautious, were always helpful. Like many of my age who grew up in the midst of the Cold War, Russia was never a place I expected to see in my lifetime. Elements of the new emerging Russia, Soviet Russia, and pre-revolutionary Russia are often intertwined. Through all of this I began to sense the spirit and strength of the Russian people. To all I encountered along the way --the students, church members, the woman at the vegetable stand, helpful strangers, --I say "spassiba" (thank you). Beyond the museums and the palaces, it is you who have shown me the heart of Russia.
Please visit this site for more information on the United Methodist Church's Russia Initiative.